Madeea's Stories

My Story of Wrocław, Poland

My road trip around Poland continues with Wrocław, a city located in the south-west of Poland, on the river Oder. For those of you having trouble pronouncing its name, it’s something like “vrotzlav” (hope that’s correct 😀 ).

Although this is one of the biggest cities in Poland, I only first heard about it roughly three years ago, when I started my current job and found out the company had offices there. And despite seeing some images and talking to co-workers who lived there, I’ve never really thought of it as a city with tourist potential. Boy, was I wrong.

Luckily, since I had co-workers there and wanted to meet them, I made sure to have some time to spare, which was probably the best choice, giving us more time to enjoy this beautiful city.

We got there in the late afternoon and spent the evening in and around Rynek (Market Square). As with every other location, the city centre was easily reachable by public transport and in this case, even by foot, which is why we walked…a lot 😊

Day 1 – get acquainted

Anyway, it was Thursday evening, and finding myself in Market Square I couldn’t help but think “the whole of Wrocław is here”. The crowds, the buzz, the everything-happening-at-once felt like all my senses were being overstimulated. Weirdly, I wasn’t as bothered by this as I usually am. It was more like a “glad to be alive” feeling. The crowd wasn’t a mob, but a party, the buzz wasn’t noise, but music to the ears. Mostly literally. Each corner of the square had at least one performer: live music, dance, magic, acrobatics, fire performances… All the restaurants were full and if you were passing by close enough, you could smell delicious food of all kinds: traditional Polish, Czech, Asian, French, burgers, etc.

Turkey liver with mushroom at Piwnica Świdnicka

After having a delicious dinner at one of the main restaurants of the Market Square, located in a cellar – Piwnica Świdnicka, we headed back to our hotel to rest and recover, getting ready for the following day.

Day 2 – see ALL the churches and some other things too

We started the day visiting a church – the Saint Elizabeth of Hungary Roman Catholic Parish. An imposing red-bricked structure, with beautiful stained-glass windows.

We walked around Market Square again, admiring it in daylight and discovering more and more of the dwarves that can be found everywhere in Wrocław. The dwarves are made of iron, are usually quite small, and mark not only important places but can be found in unusual spots too. Some of the most well-known dwarves are at the top of the Saint Mary Magdalene Cathedral on the Bridge of Penitents. Although I’m not a big fan of climbing stairs, this was worth it. The view from above is perfect.

After this, we reached the river and the three small islands on the river Oder. Crossed them and found ourselves in a place called Ostrov Tumski – a lovely part of Wrocław, where we saw two other churches: Collegiate Church of the Holy Cross and St. Bartholomew and the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Wrocław.

View of river Oder and the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Wrocław

After getting enough of the churches, we walked along the river, and relaxed on a bench on Bulwar Wrocławski before heading to the water museum – Hydropolis. But before we got there, one building worth mentioning, which I didn’t see the inside of but I swear the outside was my favourite – The National Museum in Wrocław. Gorgeous.

The water museum was a nice experience, definitely recommend taking your children there, as some of the exhibits are interactive. I left Hydropolis with a somewhat weird knowledge of clouds. You know, enough to obsessively stare at the sky and name the type of clouds I can see. Hey, who said I’m not fun? 😀

After all the walking, it was already late afternoon when we got back to the hotel and had a “lunchinner” at a Vietnamese restaurant nearby, called Hong Ha. Now, the building of this restaurant doesn’t look like much. A bit like one of those places that are not exactly inviting. However, don’t let appearances fool you. The food was very very good and the staff was very friendly.

Later on, I had drinks with a co-worker at a rather hip restaurant in the Jana Pawła II area. If I remember correctly, the place was called Eight Bowls – also an Asian restaurant. But having eaten earlier, I’ve only enjoyed a nice, refreshing cocktail.

Day 3 – relax and eat some more

As we exhausted ourselves on the second day in Wrocław, we decided to take it slower this time, so we took a boat ride on the river Oder.

TIP TIME: There are several boat “stations” along the river. The main ones you’ll find on the small islands, but we got on a boat just under the Pomorski Bridge. The ride took around 45 minutes and honestly, I wouldn’t have minded if it had been longer. It’s the perfect way to enjoy the landscape and relax at the same time.

After this, we had lunch at one of the hip restaurants on Świętego Antoniego street. I can’t remember which one exactly, but most of them had a cool vibe, with fusion cuisines and hip brunch menus. It’s a good place to go with friends, so it was perfect to meet another colleague there to catch up.

Fruit flavoured beer cocktails at Bernard

The day ended with a dinner with friends at a Czech restaurant in Market Square, called Bernard. The food looked so good and was so delicious I inhaled it before getting a picture. But if you ever go to that restaurant, I can tell you I had something called “svícková na smetaně” which was roast beef drowned in a sour cream sauce with traditional Czech bread.

A final walk around the Main Square and a brief stop on Ruska, the “party street”, concluded our lovely time in Wrocław and Poland. And if it wasn’t clear to this point and you’re looking for a rating, Wrocław – 10/10 would recommend. Put it on your travel list, add it to the top, buy your tickets, book your room and get going.

Next stop: Vienna, Austria.

My Story of Warsaw, Poland

After visiting Krakow, my next stop was Warsaw, the capital and largest city of Poland. We got there in the afternoon, so we had about a day and a half to spend here. Our accommodation was not very close to the city centre but we could easily reach it by public transport, which I really enjoyed in Poland. 10/10 recommend 😀

We started with Castle Square, enjoyed the views over the river, and took in the bustle of the crowd and street performers. We then made our way to Warsaw Barbican, a defense wall that marks the edge of the old town. To get there, we passed through the Old Town Square. As opposed to Castle Square, which is very open, the Old Town Square is enclosed by large, old buildings with beautiful architecture. And if that wasn’t enough of an enclosure, a ring of cafes and restaurants circles the square, which features in its very middle, the Warrior Mermaid – Warsaw’s symbol.

After eating traditional Polish sour rye soup at Zapiecek restaurant, we went back to Castle Square, had a look at Sigismund Column, then went further on a beautiful street lined with colourful buildings, cafes, and restaurants.

The following day we visited Lazienki Park with all its landmarks, then took a bus to Copernicus Centre, spent some time at the giant Mermaid’s Statue and fountains, had a giant slice of cake at Vita Café, then walked the waterway back to Castle Square.

We finished the day having a beer with some friends at Pokoj na Lato, a nice and chill-vibed place.

So, to give you a short list, here’s what to do in Warsaw:

1. Spend some time in the Old Town:

Visit the Barbican, Old Town Square, Castle Square, and of course, the Royal Castle

2. Visit Lazienki Park

Take your time to walk around the park, check out all the landmarks and relax

3. Check out the Palace of Culture and Science

This is the most known landmark of Warsaw which holds exhibits and different events. It also features a viewing terrace, from which you can enjoy a panoramic view of the city.

4. Visit the museums

If you have a few days to spare, you can have a museum marathon, as there are plenty of them around Warsaw. Besides the Palace of Culture and Science, you can visit the Copernicus Science Centre, The National Museum in Warsaw, Warsaw Uprising Museum, and many others.

5. Enjoy the Vistula River

Whether you go for a boat ride or walk along the river, visit the Mermaid’s Statue, relax at one of the cafes on the waterway, or even at one of the tiny beaches, the river is definitely one of Warsaw’s main attractions.

Next stop: Wroclaw, Poland.

My Story of Krakow, Poland

I spent the first two weeks of August 2022 on a road trip through parts of Poland and Austria. Left Bucharest, Romania, went through Oradea, Romania with the first destination being Krakow, Poland.

The road trip itself was an interesting experience as it was done with a fully electric car and the time spent in parking lots of gas stations, shopping centres, and McDonald’s-es to charge it… well, let’s just say, I’ve never had that many long “pit stops” in my life. Other than that, I totally recommend electric cars 😀

We stayed far from the city centre, at Hotel Apis. Luckily, we had a bus going from near the hotel to the heart of the town. Besides, the hotel was great, with a very good breakfast.

Vintage trams at the Museum of Engineering

TIP TIME: In Krakow, but also in Warsaw and Wroclaw, you can buy bus tickets from the machines inside the bus(tram) or through mobile apps.
The bus left us in front of a shopping centre which despite being open had all its stores closed. And that was how we found out that in Poland, all stores are closed on Sundays. The only exception are small private-owned shops. The reason behind it is owners are not allowed to ask their employees to work on Sundays.

But, before judging me for wasting my precious tourist time on shopping centres, I do have a good excuse for it: I left Bucharest, Romania at 40 degrees Celsius and my first day in Krakow was rainy and windy and 16 degrees Celsius. I needed an extra layer. Luckily, I did find a scarf in a small Indian shop in the old town.

The old town is surrounded by greenery and we entered it at the Saint Florian’s Gate Tower, a medieval gothic building, adjoining the city’s fortified walls. Immediately after, one can visit the Barbican Gateway, now part of the city’s Historical Museum.

From there, you’re officially inside the old town. You enter cobbled streets, flanked by old buildings with tiny shops on the ground floor. The entrance to the shops is usually fairly narrow, making you think the space is quite small, when in fact, once you’re inside it seems to expand in length like some sort of magic tunnel with no end-light in sight. Luckily, the effect is to make you want to go further and explore, rather than run out screaming. Which is exactly what I did, when I entered a candy store, called Castle Sweet and only left it half an hour later with a bag full of sweets.

By the time we reached the main square, it’d started drizzling, so we took refuge inside the Cloth Hall – a market hall with stalls selling traditional Polish trinkets and the largest amount of amber I’ve ever seen. So, if you’re a fan of amber, Krakow is the city for it. The Cloth Hall also holds at least one museum in its walls and underground. Besides this building there are three other noteworthy structures in the Main Square (Rynek Glowny): Saint Mary’s Basilica, a big red-bricked, two-towered church in one corner of the square, the Town Hall Tower, and the Church of St. Wojciech, a small, 11th-century church, that looks like it doesn’t really belong here, sort of like a lost child in a crowd of adults, which is weird, considering it’s probably the great-great-great grandma of the buildings around.

The old town ends in a crowning glory with, you guessed it – a castle. The Wawel Royal Castle. It’s a museum you can visit, but I strongly suggest you buy your tickets online and pay close attention to the timetable of the tours. We didn’t, and we were supposed to wait another almost two hours for the next tour, so we decided against it. Instead, we enjoyed the pouring rain and views over the river, then went down through the Dragon’s Den, a cave at the mouth of which the dragon itself awaits, breathing fire at regular intervals. Fun!

Side of the Castle building holding the cafe

After walking a bit along the river, we had a very good lunch at Karakter, a very nice restaurant with delicious French-style cuisine.

We then explored a bit more of the part of town called Kazimierz, the historic Jewish quarter, saw the street famously known as Schindler’s List Passage (from the movie), then visited the Museum of Engineering, particularly the barn full of vintage trams, which concluded our first day in Krakow.

The Dragon

On the following day, despite initially not planning to go, we decided to visit Auschwitz – very last minute. Which meant there weren’t any tickets left for the English-guided tour, so we ended up going on the Spanish-guided tour, which actually turned out all right. But the point is: don’t make up your mind about it at the last minute and make sure you book your tour in advance. Other than that, it’s difficult to describe the experience of visiting this place, so you’ll forgive me if I don’t go into details. I would say it is worth the visit.

After coming back from Auschwitz, we spent the evening on the other side of the river Vistula in the Stare Podgorze, visiting the Saint Joseph Church and its surroundings, which I was very impressed with. The church’s architecture is neo-gothic and has a striking, embellished appearance. But what struck me more were the sculptures around it, representing scenes of Jesus’s way to Golgotha. The sculptures are exhibited on a cliff surrounding the church. If you follow the scenes composing the story, they will take you up some stairs and into a small, but beautiful park, where you can stop on a bench to rest and admire the beauty of nature and church.

Being in this neighbourhood, we also made a stop at the Jewish Ghetto Memorial, a big square filled with giant metal chairs, representing the abandoned possessions of the Jewish people who were gathered in this square before being deported.

Overall, this day revolved around the story of the Jewish people and their oppression which made it a rather sad and introspective day. Nonetheless, an interesting one.

Next stop on my journey and story: Warsaw, Poland.

A Trip Around Puglia part 4

My Story of Polignano a Mare

After a full and rather tiring trip to Matera, we decided Sunday is the day of rest, so we only took a smaller trip from Bari to Polignano a Mare. It’s a short train ride of about 20 minutes and costs about 5 euros round-trip.

But why Polignano a Mare? Well, because it’s one of those places that keep popping up on social media: beautiful views of the sea, cave restaurants, tiny piece of beach flanked by rocks… you know, the usual.

After getting off the train along with what felt like the entire population of Bari – I swear a mass of people disembarked into Polignano a Mare and started in the direction of the sea. Naturally, we followed and soon reached the town center. Limestoned and searing hot, with tiny, winding streets that felt like a labyrinth I gladly got lost in.

Walking the streets of Polignano a Mare

Before reaching the “labyrinth”, we passed a trinkets market in the square. I’m not sure if it was a one-time thing or a Sunday Market, but there were lots of cute souvenirs to choose from.

Once we got our fill of trinkets, we started exploring the tiny streets. The labyrinth paths take you out to sea from time to time, giving you a breather and a panoramic view to enjoy and take plenty of pictures of. There’s also a belvedere of the beach where we stayed for a while, watching a group of people jumping off the cliffs into the sea – for recreational purposes, of course. I don’t think I’d ever do that – must have something to do with my fear of heights and inability to swim – but it was quite thrilling watching.

We then tried our luck at the beach, but besides us not being properly equipped for the beach, there was barely any sand space left. Also, the bars overlooking the sea would charge a fixed fee that equaled a bottle of wine, if you wanted a table. So, if you plan to go there and have a coffee looking out onto the beach and sea, be ready to have a bottle of wine as well, or at least to pay for it. However, I recommend you enjoy the view for free from other town corners.

A strip of the beach seen through the bridge columns

When we got enough of the town, we headed back to the train station and as we had another hour to spare before the train arrived, we found a park nearby, with a refreshments kiosk where we spent our time having a drink and relaxing in the quiet. I also found a fun minion-inspired bench that had written on it: “Happiness is found in the smile of a child”.

Now, I know it doesn’t sound like much from my description of the place, but truly, you have to be there. By the time I visited the place, I was already tired and lazy from the previous travel days, but Polignano a Mare is a beautiful town with great seascapes and it’s worth a trip if you’re in the area.

A Trip Around Puglia part 3

My Story of Matera, Italy

I’ve told you about Bari and Alberobello and it is now time for another Pugliese gemstone: Matera.

It appears that this area of Italy has a thing for quirky dwellings, as while Alberobello is the town of trulli, Matera is a cave town. Literally. A large portion of this town has been built into the side of hills, dug into rock.

You’ll find plenty of cave churches and houses too and you’ll see the hills opposite the town are also holey… with caves.

But, first things first, a bit about how we got there. We woke up terribly early, walked to the train station, took the train to the airport and from there a bus that went to Matera.

TIP TIME: You can buy the bus tickets online, but pay close attention to the bus schedule and train schedule and expect some long waits in between. Suffice it to say getting to Matera from Bari using public transport can be a bit tricky.

The bus left us at the main bus and train station in Matera. From there, we made a short stop at the Info Point where we got a map. After that, we stopped for gelato and mini cakes. Before reaching the rocky neighbourhoods, Matera looks very much like a regular Italian town. The main pedestrian street, lined with shops and cafes, takes you to a square where it all begins. As it was a Saturday, we even caught a glimpse of a bride walking up the steps of a cathedral, then marvelled at a weird-looking ballerina sculpture.

Another church featured mainly skulls on its outer walls, which I haven’t seen anywhere else. Slowly, we reached a part of town where we could get a panoramic view of the entire Matera and then entered a cave that used to be a church.

TIP TIME: If you choose to visit this part of Italy in the summer, know that it’s very hot. The sun is burning and in Matera, there aren’t many places to get cover, except for the cool caves. So, take advantage of that and enter as many as you can. Alternatively, get plenty of water, wear sunscreen, and some sort of head coverage. You’ll need it.

After walking around the whole town – that is, the touristic part, we visited a subterranean cistern, called Palombaro Lungo. It was the place where some of the town’s drinking water used to be stored. And it provided a cool shelter from the blistering heat outside.

We then tried to find something to eat and finally decided on a small café, where we got a small bite, coffee, and some fruity iced tea, and spent a couple of relaxing hours.

TIP TIME: As everywhere in Italy, restaurants close between lunch and dinner, with a few exceptions, so be careful how you plan your meals to sync with their schedule. Our eating habits get pretty hectic when on holiday so we sometimes end up spending a long time finding a place that’s open at 3 pm for example.

So, what to do in Matera:

– Walk around Sasso Caveoso and Sassi di Matera and visit cave dwellings, stop to take pictures of some of the best panoramic views. Pay close attention, as some of the caves hold art exhibits worth at least a glance.

– If you have more time, go for a hike across the river to the other hills and the caves found there. These caves also hold churches and chapels

– Visit Tramontano Castle

– Visit Palombaro Lungo (the cistern) and all the other small museum, such as the Ipogeo Materasum

– Make a stop in Piazza Vittorio Veneto at Bar Caffe Tripoli for an espresso and a snack.

And that concludes my brief story of Matera. Next stop: Polignano a Mare.

A Trip Around Puglia part 2

My Story of Alberobello

I wanted to squeeze all the gemstones of Puglia in this article: Alberobello, Matera, and Polignano a Mare, but thought better of it, so you’ll get some really short reads with these next stories.

First stop: Alberobello

On the second day of the trip – see part 1 here, we went to the central train station and boarded a bus to Alberobello. Tickets were bought online from www.trainline.com for a little over 4 euros. So, a round-trip is almost 9 euros. Timewise, we got there in about 1 hour.

TIP TIME: FFP2 masks are still required on public transportation around Italy, so if you’re travelling there, make sure you have some on hand.

On the way to Alberobello, you can already spot tiny stone huts, scattered on the fields. Why is this important? Well, because the old part of Alberobello is fully comprised of trulli. A trullo is a traditional dry stone hut with a corbelled roof. It is specific to this region and dates back centuries, being initially built either for storage or as dwellings for workers of the land.

Nowadays, they make up one of the most popular tourist attractions in Puglia, being also recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Why are these huts so special? Well, not only for their local allure and history, but I suppose, for most of us, regular mortals, Alberobello makes us think of a Smurf village – with no actual connection.

Once we got there and hopped off the bus, a little after 11:00 am, we got a taste of sunny Italian summer, with the sun already burning the cobbled streets. Nevertheless, we made our way to the Belvedere Terazza Santa Lucia, where we got our best view of the trulli, along with tons of pictures. After that, we slowly made our way through the “neighbourhood” wandering at the blindingly whitewashed walls and awesome roofs. Plus, the people here really make an effort to keep the area clean and pretty, with plenty of flowers decorating window seals, doorsteps, and tiny alleys.

A street in Alberobello

We didn’t get a tour guide, but if you have the chance, you might want to consider it, as I’m sure you’ll get a better sense of the historical and social importance of the Trulli of Alberobello. Even so, marvelling at the “smurf town” – sorry, Italians, I can’t help it – without having a guide, is still worth the trip from Bari. And, if you’re a photography enthusiast, passionate Instagrammer or trendy TikToker, YouTuber, etc…this is the place for you. I kid you not. The shots you’ll get here – spectacular.

When we got enough of the trulli, we stopped for some gelato and ice coffee at a café, where we hid from the sun for a while and cooled off, and where, most importantly, I ate a “tit”. That’s right, I said what I said. A “tit”/ “boob” or tette, more officially “tette delle monache”, is an Italian sweet pastry with cream and custard, that resembles a breast. I loved it. It was sort of fluffy, sweet but not overly sweet and it topped the cannolo on my top deserts list… left it behind… the cannolo is sitting in a corner crying. Sorry not sorry.

And with that ended my day in Alberobello. We then went back to the bus station and enjoyed the road back, stopped for an octopus sandwich at Muto Like a Fish for a lunchinner…dlunch?

And back to our comfy accommodation to get some rest for the following day: a trip to Matera… coming soon.

A Trip Around Puglia part 1

My Story of Bari, Italy

Long time – no travel, but I’m back to my backpack and the first journey was to the Puglia (Apulia) region in Italy. More specifically, Bari, Matera, Alberobello and Polignano a Mare.

Puglia is the “heel” of Italy’s “boot”, with Bari, the largest city in the region, as a sort of capital. However, besides Bari, there are many places worth visiting here and I only got to see a few of them. So, if you’re looking to do more thorough research on this part of Italy, have a look at its official travel website.

But if you’re curious about my story, keep on reading. I promise not to make it too boring.

First things first, some logistics. I travelled by plane from Bucharest, Romania, to Bari, Italy with Wizzair. The round-trip tickets were bought about 2 weeks before the trip for around 50 euros.

TIP time

From the Bari Airport to Bari Centrale (Central Train Station) there is a train that takes about 20 minutes and costs 5,10 euros. This line is different from the regular train line and tickets won’t appear available on apps such as Trainline or Omio. But you can find the timetables on their website here. Tickets are available at the automatic vending machines in the stations.

Story time

After reaching Bari Centrale, we started by foot towards the accommodation, located some 2km away from the station, in the direction opposite the city centre. Perhaps not our best decision, given we walked a lot and refused to take the bus, but other than not being in the city centre, the accommodation was great. It’s called Morris Bed&Breakfast, it’s located in a quiet neighbourhood, and has anything you need, including a very helpful and friendly host, who welcomed us and offered lots of useful information and maps of Bari.

Once we settled, we headed back to the city, past the train station, into the modern shopping streets of Bari (Murat), filled with bars and restaurants, and then to the old town, with its cobbled streets, Svevo Castle, churches, and port.

We slowly made our way around the castle and stopped at the most popular gelato shop, located in the castle square: Gelateria Gentile. After enjoying some traditional gelato flavours, we continued exploring and found something that gave us a better feel of Bari – a tiny street lined with pasta-covered tables where some Barese ladies were making that pasta, fresh, right there in front of you.

After that, we wandered the streets of the old town, the waterfront, then back to one of the main streets of Bari, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, which marks the border of the old and new town and at the end of which we found a foodie’s treasure: La Porchetteria di Ariccia(Bari). As I’ve mentioned before, starting with My Story of Rome, when we first discovered porchetta, this Italian delicious savoury pork belly roll has become a staple in our Italian travels and we try it everywhere we can find it. It is specific to Rome and the centre of Italy, but there are some other places you might be lucky enough to find it. Bari is one of them. And La Porchetteria di Ariccia did not disappoint. It is a fast-food restaurant, which offers so many sandwich options, it was hard for us to decide what to pick. But just ask for a porchetta sandwich and start from there, adding as many extras as you’d like. Even now, thinking back to the sundried tomatoes, olives, mushrooms, and artichokes topping the juicy porchetta makes my mouth water. And yes, if it wasn’t obvious already, we ate here several times during our stay.

So, what to eat in Bari?

Besides the porchetta I already told you about, which is not specific to this region, you can also try the following:

• Gelato (Italian ice cream)

This is obviously a must anywhere you find yourself in Italy. So whether you try the old Gelateria Gentile or any other shop around, give it a try.

• Orecchiete (small ears)

Don’t worry, these aren’t actual ears, but pasta specific to the Puglia region. Their shape sort of resembles ears, if ears are Dopey (Snow-White’s dwarf) style. I guess it’s an artistic choice, which I’m totally up for.

• Seafood

Being a seafront city, Bari offers plenty of seafood and fish options. The one I tried and actually saw displayed in various eateries was the octopus sandwich (panino con polpo). The version I had, was with spinach and burrata at the Muto Like a Fish restaurant in the Murat neighbourhood.

Sandwiches on display at one of the many eateries in Bari

And now that we’ve eaten our way through Bari, let’s get walking.

What to do in Bari:

• Walk the streets of the city centre, go shopping in the Murat neighbourhood and enjoy a cosmopolitan afternoon at the cafes.

• Explore the old town and enjoy the tiny streets, finding hidden treasures, such as the pasta street I told you about, or tiny cafes and restaurants.

The “Pasta” Street in Bari

• Visit Svevo Castle and the Bari Cathedral. Located within a few steps from each other, these are, by far, the main attractions of the old town. However, in the same area, you’ll find at least three other museums. So, if you’re a culture buff, you’ll surely find plenty to see here, including Museo Civico and the Archaeological Museum.

• Take a walk along the seafront, have a look at the boats, and rest on one of the benches near the port.

• Spend some time at the beach. You’ll find some small beaches on either side of the old town and port. The beaches to the south can be reached by train from Bari Centrale in about 10 minutes.

Stay tuned for my next stories of Puglia, to discover places such as Alberobello, Matera, and Polignano a Mare. Coming soon.

My Story of Naples, Italy

Two years ago, just before the pandemic took over Europe, I was on my last “unmasked” trip. The destination: Naples, Italy, which I will refer to as “Napoli” (it’s the Italian name, and it comes easier to me).

I had four days to spend here and tried to make the best of it. The accommodation was an apartment in the Materdei neighbourhood, close to the Materdei subway station and one of the oldest pizza restaurants in Napoli: Starita.

We arrived in the evening and only had time for dinner: takeaway pizza from a place nearby (not Starita though, as the queue was to the street corner).

Capri

The next day, a very sunny one, we decided to visit the Island of Capri. To get there, we took a ferry from Napoli. Once in Capri, there are small buses that take you up to the small town at the top of the island. From there, there are several directions you can go. We didn’t exactly plan what to do on Capri, so we just decided to let our feet take us someplace, knowing, from the moment we stepped on the island, that it will be beautiful everywhere.

First, we reached Belvedere di Punta Cannone, a spot from where you could admire a gorgeous view. Then, we somehow got back to the center and started in a different direction, eventually reaching the Arco Naturale, a rock formation resembling a huge arc, creating some other amazing views of the sea.

What you have to keep in mind is that these spots, although beautiful, were really just the cherries on top of an already wonderful cake. All the winding roads, the white houses, the trees and flowers, and the overly enthusiastic sun made Capri a heaven on earth kind of place. You know, the kind you dream of retiring to someday.

If you have the time, I recommend you spend at least one full day on Capri, as it has so many things to offer, besides the two I mentioned, such as grottoes, parks, and forts.

Pompei

The following day was reserved for Pompei, the ruins of the ancient city once covered in ash by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius. We reached the town by train, a trip that took about 40 minutes from Napoli. The site of the ruins is incredibly big – truly an entire stone city. The atmosphere was heavy, foretelling a storm. Dark clouds were gathering over and combined with the tragic story of the city, it made for a sombre visit. However, if you are in this region of Italy, I do believe you should make a stop in Pompei. Another similar site can be found at Herculaneum. We made a stop there as well, had lunch at a café near the train station, and had a look at the archaeological site from above and decided to skip it, as we found it quite similar to Pompei, except a bit smaller.

Napoli

Finally, a full day in Napoli. We started the day with a tour of Napoli’s Sotterranea (underground tunnels). 10/10 recommend. It was great! Squeezing through the incredibly narrow stone tunnels, finding out more about the city’s history… a great experience overall. Afterward, we wandered a bit more around the old town then walked towards the sea, took pictures with the wolves in Piazza Municipio, marvelled at Castle Nuovo, the Royal Palace, and Ovo Castle. We also enjoyed a long walk on Napoli’s waterfront, getting a better sense of the city as a seaside destination. We had a great lunch at a restaurant near Ovo Castle. Several fancy restaurants lined the docks of the old marina and we stopped at La Scialuppa, where I had some tuna and salad. Staying on the food topic, in the evening, we finally got a table at Starita, the pizza restaurant near our apartment, and enjoyed a very original Neapolitan pizza.

On the last day of the trip, as we still had some time to kill before leaving for the airport, we decided to visit the Archaeological Museum of Napoli, a building we kept passing by on our strolls through the city.

Beautiful and delicious food at La Scialuppa

All in all, Napoli is worth a visit. For the pizza, for the castles, the underground, the museums, and waterfront walkways. And of course, for the other attractions nearby, such as Capri or Pompei. Not to mention that, if you have more time and perhaps decide to rent a car, spend some time on the Amalfi Coast and visit Sorrento and Positano. I also hear the Island of Ischia is worth visiting, so really, there’s plenty to do in the region for at least a full week.

12 Books I Read in 2021

Photo by Ugur Akdemir on Unsplash

How I traveled Fictionally Last Year

I wrote a similar article about the books I read in 2020, which you can read here. You’ll find I was a much more “productive” reader back then, with 19 books read, as opposed to only 12 this past year. For some reason, despite the very long to-read list, I can’t seem to get myself wrapped up in a story the way I used to… I do blame social media and Netflix binging for it, but also, it might be just me.

I’ve also started the year with the idea of writing book reviews…that only lasted for a few months. However, laziness aside, I did discover some superb stories this year, one of which I can now count as a favourite.

So, here’s my list of 12 books I read in 2021 and be careful, there are spoilers ahead:

1. The Invisible Life of Addie LaRue by V.E.Schwab

Not a bad read at all and based on the clever idea of someone living for several centuries (without being a vampire) and being “invisible”. Addie LaRue prays to the wrong god, wishes for the wrong things, and starts living an extraordinary life, spanning centuries, with no one acknowledging her existence, until one day, when she steals a book from an old books shop, she gets caught…for the first time. This is marked as an adult fantasy novel, although, at times, it felt a bit more like young adult. Overall, I enjoyed this story and got to write in more detail about it here. I gave it 4/5 stars.

2. Five Quarters of the Orange by Joanne Harris

I am a fan of Joanne Harris, after reading her “Chocolat” series and this book did not disappoint either. A historical fiction novel, with a strong family/mother-daughter relationship theme, it’s the story of Framboise and her family living through World War II on a farm in German-occupied France. You can read more details about it here. I gave it 4.5/5 stars.

3. Silver in the Wood by Emily Tesh

Also reviewed in the same article as the previous book. Silver in the Wood is more of a short fantasy novella about a large man living in the forest, protecting its fairy inhabitants as well as the villagers nearby. The story starts when Andrew Silver moves into the mansion at the edge of the forest and the two develop a strong bond. 3/5 stars from me.

4. The Alice Network by Kate Quinn

Another historical fiction novel with two intertwined storylines, one from World War I and the other from the late ‘40s. A young woman goes in search of her long-lost cousin and the only connection she finds is a war spy, who is, at first, reluctant to help. While the story of the spy (Eve) is very intense and at times borders on the grotesque, the story of the young woman (Charlie) is softer, with some romance and lots of fashion. Overall, I very much enjoyed this book, reviewed it in more detail here, and gave it 5/5 stars.

5 – 6 -7. The Daevabad Trilogy by S.A. Chakraborty

Now, this – is a favourite. I started reading the first volume “The City of Brass” now knowing what I’m getting myself into and got so wrapped up, I read the next two books like there was no tomorrow. They were “unputdownable” to me. Let me tell you why. This is an adventure-fantasy novel, with a heavy socio-political theme. We have a girl from the 1800s in Cairo with powers she doesn’t quite understand, who meets a strong and mysterious man who guides us to the city of the daevas, or as we know them, djinnies. The city is ruled by a not-so-loved king, whose son, prince Ali, has connections with the rebels. From here, we get deeper into the story and the magic unravels more and more. I wholeheartedly recommend this trilogy for adventure and fantasy lovers. I wrote a review of the first volume, which you can read here. Overall, 5/5 stars

8. The Binding by Bridget Collins

Another fantasy novel with a very interesting subject: people (their memories) get bound into books. In a society where people and their thoughts and memories are discarded and seen as disposable, a young man becomes an apprentice to a bookbinder. His life gets complicated when he encounters another young man looking to get bound. Check out the entire review here. Another 4/5 stars for this book.

9. Frankenstein by Mary Shelley

I know, I should’ve read this one a long time ago, but hey, better late than never. Everyone’s at least heard about it, so I won’t go into details. I enjoyed it and was surprised at how modern it was and in awe at the brain of the young author, who’s cooked up such a story. Again, 4/5 stars.

10. If We Were Villains by M.L. Rio

A novel slightly different from my usual reads, set in the theatre world, with extensive passages from Shakespeare’s plays, it follows the story of a group of theatre students, who get a little too into their characters. Kind of a dark gothic story. I liked how it was written and very much enjoyed the descriptions of the sets. 3.5/5 stars from me.

11. The Archive of the Forgotten by A.J. Hackwith

This is the second book in the Hell’s Library trilogy, the first of which I read back in 2020, and the last of which I read in the first days of 2022. Also a fantasy novel, it follows former librarian, now arcanist Claire, muse librarian Brevity, the angel Ramiel and the book Hero through some adventures as they try to uncover the mystery of the ink pool which appeared in the middle of the Arcane Wing out of nowhere. The entire series was to my liking as it’s first and foremost about books. I give it 5/5 stars and I recommend you read them all.

12. How to Argue with a Cat by Jay Heinrichs

I almost forgot about this one, a non-fiction book I got as a present. It talks about how to convince strong-minded people (and cats) or how to negotiate with them. I’m not a big fan of this kind of books and I find that mostly they say things I already know, but it wasn’t a bad read overall. It’s a short and easy book, so if you’re curious or maybe you have a cat, you could give it a try.

Did you read any of these books? What are your thoughts?

My Story of Malta

Throwback to my 2019 holidays

This year, I’m spending the holidays at home, in peace and quiet, which I do enjoy, but I also miss travelling. In 2019, I got to spend the holidays in Malta. We arrived on Christmas Day and left on New Year’s Day 2020. It was a full week of exploring the gorgeous island of Malta, plus a day in Gozo.
From the airport, we got a bus that took us close to Valetta, then on another, that took us to our accommodation, a cozy apartment, located in Il-Gzira.

View of a street in Il Gzira. Love the colourful balconies

TIP TIME: Buses are very reliable in Malta and cover most (if not all) of the tourist attractions. Tickets can be bought from the drivers or you can get a travel card “tallinja” to cover several days. We got the “Explore” card, which offered unlimited travel for 7 days and cost 21 euros. You can find more information here.

Day 1
The first evening was spent exploring the surroundings and taking pictures of the sunset over the gulf of Sliema. Being Christmas day, most restaurants had fixed special Christmas menus that weren’t very appealing to us, but we found a place where we had some very delicious pasta.

Day 2
The following day was reserved for Valetta, the capital of Malta, a lovely and lively city, which was quite crowded, despite the time of year. Here, from the impressive gates to Fort St. Elmo, which we visited, everything gives the impression of light and joy, with a touch of history at every step. Besides wandering the stoned streets, and visiting Fort St. Elmo, we made a stop at the Lower Barakka Gardens, which were possibly my favourite place. If you have more than a day to spend in Valetta, there’s a big list of Museums you should visit, including the Museum of Archaeology.

Day 3
On the third day, we went further, on the opposite shore from Valetta, and visited Fort St. Angelo, The Inquisitor’s Palace, Malta at War Museum, Hal Saflieni Hypogeum, and the Tarxien Temples, the last two being ancient sites and despite not being extraordinary to look at, the fact that the ruins lasted so long and the simple idea of stepping on something that’s been built by people who lived thousands of years before is what makes them extraordinary.

Day 4
On our 4th day in Malta, we visited Mdina, the old capital and by far, one of my favourite spots. We got there by bus, of course, and explored the cobbled streets, Domus Romana, and Saint Paul’s Catacombs. Domus Romana was impressive for me as it was Roman style house, very well preserved, with mosaic floors.
The second part of the day, we went to Buggiba, another part of Malta, where we visited the Aquarium, walked along the rocky shore, and had a lovely dinner at a fish restaurant called Ocean Basket. The food was great and I definitely recommend it.

Day 5
Day 5 was reserved for some other ancient ruins, at Hagar Qim, then tried to make it to the Blue Grotto, but then decided not to go on a boat and instead took a bus to Marsaxlokk, a very famous fish town, where a big market is organized every Sunday. The town itself is charming, but we only got there when the market was already almost wrapped up and the place was bustling with tourists, so much you could barely enjoy the sights. Not to mention all restaurants were full. Because I was terribly hungry, I ended up grabbing a Colombian hot dog, from a street vendor. The food was good and lasted enough until we returned to Il-Gzira.

Day 6
A day reserved for Malta’s little brother, the island of Gozo. Again, we took a bus to the far end of the island, then got the ferry to Gozo. The ferry trip takes roughly 20 minutes. From the boat, we took another bus to the centre of the island, where another stone town, with small winding streets, awaited. Here, we visited the citadel, surrounded by large stone walls and holding a cathedral, an old prison, an archaeology museum, and surprisingly many small jewellery and glass shops.
Leaving the island of Gozo, the skies darkened and by the time we reached the shore of Malta it was raining so heavily, we got soaked before we reached the bus station, only a few meters away. We waited for the bus for what seemed like forever and the ride back was probably the longest of my life. However, by the time we reached familiar neighbourhoods, specifically St. Julian’s, we were dry and got off the bus early, to explore a bit more by foot. We also made a last stop at an eatery we discovered in Sliema, called Sea Salt. A tiny place on a street corner, that sells seafood and the best octopus burgers you’ll ever eat. If only they delivered to Bucharest…

The last day of the year was for recovery, so we spent it mostly inside, watching tv. We went out just before midnight for a leisure walk at the waterfront. Got a glimpse of the fireworks from Valetta, then made it back to the apartment. The next day we went to the airport and back home. Careful though, buses weren’t working on New Year’s Day, so better grab a taxi than wait for the bus for over an hour… as we did.

Anyway, all in all, Malta is a must-see. There are so many spots worth visiting, enough to keep you entertained a full week and if you’re going when it’s warmer, you can definitely add beaches to the list. In December, the high was about 16-17 degrees Celsius and mostly sunny, except for that dreadful rain on the 30th. However, the wind is pretty strong and the air crisp, so make sure you’re prepared with wind/waterproof jacket.

That’s how I spent my 2019 holidays and with this story I conclude my 2021 blog posts. Hope you enjoy my stories and keep on reading in 2022-too 🙂